Finished Feathers!

I’ve finished stitching all ten of the large feathers in the outer sashing of my On the Road to Minnesota mystery quilt. This quilt was my first attempt at free-motion feathers, and I am so pleased with how it has turned out. Although they are far from perfect, they look just fine when not being viewed close-up through my ultra-critical eye.

Here is a view of the whole quilt.

finished stitching feathers

Another view, without the flash, so the feathers show up a little better.

another view of finished feathers

And a close-up view. Again, not using the flash shows the quilting more, although the colours are a little bit darkened. The first picture captures the colours more accurately.

close-up of feathers

I love the way that the large feathers fill up that awkward double sashing, making it look like it was designed just for them. That big expanse of background fabric really needed something to spice it up.

In addition to the feathers, the entire quilt has in-the-ditch quilting around all pieced elements. Now I just need to add a little something to the large squares in the centre of the blocks. They seem a little too big to leave as is. The outer border might need a little more as well. But the end is in sight!

Pattern: On the Road to Minnesota

Designer: Border Creek Station

Quilting designs: my own

Previous posts:

On the Road to Minnesota

On the Road to Minnesota, Part 2

On the Road to Minnesota, Part 3

On the Road to Minnesota, Part 4

One Down, Nine to Go

Current Projects – Jan. ’09

I’m currently in the middle of a few things, so I don’t have finished items to post about. In the meantime, I thought I’d post an overview of my current active works-in-progress.

In knitting, I am working on two things right now. The first is the Wharf ‘n’ Weave top that I started last February, and then set aside for a long while. I’ve now finished the back, and half of the right front.

Finished-back-003

For the front, I decided that I needed to make a chart to keep track of where I am in the stitch pattern as I do the decreases for the arm and neck openings. Here’s a picture of the chart I drew up. It’s just a simple chart on graph paper, but it helps me know where to start the slip stitches, etc., of the stitch pattern. I had a lot of trouble with this when I was working on the back.

chart-for-right-front-004

Also in knitting, I’ve started a new sock. This one is the Baroque sock from the Fall 2008 issue of knitty.com, in a blue sock yarn from Holiday Yarns. I’ve just started it. I’m very happy with how the yarn shows off the stitch detail. This pattern isn’t really difficult, but it does require paying attention.

first-sock---cuff-003

I’m also reading the classic mystery novel The Nine Tailors, by Dorothy L. Sayers, before I go ahead and start working on The Nine Tailors sock kit from The Tsarina of Tsocks that I bought in Rhinebeck. I figured that if I was going to be knitting based on the bell ringing in the book, I might as well understand the significance of it. So far, it’s a great read.

I think I need to start one more knitting project, something very simple that I can work on when I am tired, or out somewhere. Both of these other ones require either charts or multiple balls of yarn – neither of which lend themselves to travel.

In quilting, I am still working on the large feather stitching on my On the Road to Minnesota mystery quilt. I’m still at 3 finished out of 10.

I’ve also been slowly adding embroidery to Space Girl, the quilt that I started in a class in Houston in 2007.

Space Girl

I just need to add a little more detail to her space suit. Then I can start writing her story on the background, before layering and quilting her. She has been my handwork during my quilting group meetings for the last little while. Slowly but surely.

Of course, I have a lot of other UFOs, but these are the active projects at the moment. Also on the horizon are more ATCs. Plus a reorganization of the yarn stash. That should keep me busy for a while.

Free-Motion Quilting Tips

I just finished stitching the second of the big feathers on my On the Road to Minnesota quilt. Now I am taking a break, and I decided to write down a few things I’ve figured out while working on this quilt. I thought if I wrote them down, I might actually remember them next time.

Golden Threads tips:

  1. When drawing an original symmetrical design, draw half of it, then fold the paper in half along the edge of the design, turn over, and trace the first half onto the second half of the paper. You now have a perfectly matching mirror image. If desired, unfold the paper, and retrace the whole pattern onto a new sheet.
  2. Visibility of the lines of the pattern is very important when stitching.
  3. Marking the pattern with pencil works okay, but the pencil rubs off while stitching, which means dirty fingers and maybe dirty fabric. Pencil is also not that dark.
  4. Ball-point pen makes nice dark, clear marks, but can sometimes get blotchy. I think this might be because of how slippery the surface of the paper is. (Or maybe all of my ball-point pens are full of fail.)
  5. Roller-ball pens make nice, clear marks, too. The ink takes a while to dry, and will smudge when wet. I had to either carefully plan to trace from top to bottom, to avoid smudging the lines, or wait at times for lines to dry before continuing.
  6. Permanent marker (Sharpie) makes a nice, clear mark, dries quickly and doesn’t bleed through the paper. The odour of the marker bothers me after a while, though.
  7. Tracing the pattern is easier with good lighting, and table and chair set at comfortable heights. It also helps to put white paper under the master copy of the pattern if it is on Golden Threads paper or another tracing paper.
  8. I have printed on Golden Threads paper with an ink-jet printer. I cut the paper to a size supported by my printer. A light press with a dry iron on very low heat flattened the paper. I found I could only feed through one page at a time, and from an otherwise empty paper tray. The pages tend to stick together, and the feed is sometimes poor because the paper is slippery. Ink-jet printer ink tends to flake off with while sewing. I’ve used this method when using Golden Threads paper as a foundation for foundation paper piecing. Try it at your own risk.
  9. Even on dark fabric, fine black lines show up well, thanks to the light colour of the paper.
  10. Low-tack masking tape is handy to tape the page onto the master copy of the pattern.
  11. It’s a good idea to mark some placement marks on the pattern, to help line it up on the quilt before pinning.
  12. Ironing the paper on very low heat with no steam is a good way to get rid of the paper’s curl from being rolled up.
  13. Smaller stitches make the paper easier to remove after quilting.
  14. Fine-tipped tweezers are handy for removing tiny bits of paper stuck in stitches.
  15. Golden Threads paper is a great way to mark a quilt after it has already been sandwiched.

Free-motion quilting tips:

  1. A smooth work surface is very helpful to prevent the quilt from pulling or catching while quilting. I have a Sew Slip sheet on the extension table of my machine, and it works very well for me.
  2. It doesn’t take much to cause pulling or catching,  either of which make it surprisingly hard to quilt a smooth, even line. Adjust hand positions frequently, and adjust the quilt at the same time. Make sure it isn’t falling off the table edge, or catching on the bed of the machine or the front (or back) edge of the table or extension table.
  3. When stopping, keep the quilt still with both hands until the needle has stopped moving. Stop with the needle in the down position. I’ve noticed that I sometimes don’t get my foot all the way off the pedal quickly, and the machine takes another stitch or two when I am stopping. Letting go of the quilt at that moment can make it pull away and those extra stitches end up jumping away from the pattern line.
  4. Visibility helps – good lighting, a good seating height, clear lines on the pattern (if using one), magnifier glasses if needed – every little bit helps.
  5. Sit with a good body position – table and chair at the proper height, hands in comfortable positions on the machine’s bed. When stopping to adjust hands and quilt, also adjust shoulders back to where they belong – away from the ears.
  6. Don’t forget to breathe.
  7. Find a stitching speed that feels right for you and for the pattern. A complex pattern will require a slower speed. Too fast and you will feel panicked and have trouble following the pattern. Too slow can make it harder to get even stitches and smooth curves. Try different speeds to find what works for you. Ignore helpful people who tell you to go fast, fast, fast.
  8. Stitching samples in the thread (top and bottom) and fabric in the quilt is very valuable in getting the right thread tension. Stitch the sample with the same pattern you’ll use in the quilt – tension can vary between tight curves and straight lines.
  9. Keep a close eye on the amount of thread in the bobbin. Nothing is more frustrating than getting half-way through a complex pattern to find that you ran out way back there, three fronds ago.
  10. Keep an eye on the top thread, too. Watch for splits that foreshadow thread breakage. Don’t ignore odd noises and rough stitching or pulling. Those are signs something is wrong, and it won’t go away until it’s fixed. Honest.
  11. Top and bobbin threads should be about the same weight. They don’t have to be the same type or colour.
  12. Backing the quilt with busy fabric hides a lot of imperfections in the quilting. So does using matching thread. So does thinner thread. Unless you are making a quilt for entry to a juried show, little mistakes don’t matter.
  13. Finished is more important than perfect. (Oh, maybe that should be Tip Number 1?)